The San Isidro’s Feast Day are always a much-anticipated and festive time in Madrid. They take place in mid-May, during which the city’s patron saint, San Isidro Labrador, is celebrated. Normally, if you’re in Madrid during this period, you’ll have the chance to enjoy the special atmosphere that pervades the city. It’s a festival on a grand scale, but one that remains authentic. Many Madrilenians dress in typical costume for this event. But who exactly is being celebrated, and what is the traditional programme for these festivities outside the Covid period? In this article, we take a look at San Isidro in Madrid.
But who is San Isidro’s Feast Day?
San Isidro Labrador (born near Madrid, c. 1070-1130) is the patron saint of the city of Madrid, in other words, the saint who protects the city.
He was a very pious farm labourer, and miracles regularly occurred when he worked for his master. One of his most famous miracles was to bring water from very dry ground. San Isidro was also involved in the healing of King Philip III of Spain. The latter then asked for him to be canonised. Pope Gregory XV canonised the peasant on 12 March 1622.
Subsequently, many cures were attributed to his tomb.
Every year, for several days around 15 May, the city of Madrid celebrates its patron saint.
The traditional San Isidro’s Feast Day in Madrid
The Chulapos and Chulapas
On 15 May (a public holiday in Spain), many people in Madrid put on their traditional costume (or part of it!). Men and boys dress as Chulapos, and women and girls as Chulapas. This is the traditional Madrid costume worn by the locals for traditional fiestas (mainly San Isidro and San Paloma). Of course, not everyone wears this typical costume, but in places like the Pradera de San Isidro, we were surprised to see so many people (young and old) dressed like this.
Where does this costume come from?
The terms “chulapo” and “chulapa” date back to the 19th century. They referred to the traditional Madrid inhabitants of the Maravillas (Malasaña) district. At the time, there were other terms for different groups of Madrid inhabitants. The difference between the different terms depended on the person’s field of activity, the neighbourhood… and each group had its own costumes. The term chulapos/chulapas and their costumes have survived over time (more so than other terms that existed at the time) to become the traditional dress of the people of Madrid even today (when there is a party…).
- Traditional chulapa costume: white blouse, polka-dot skirt, colourful apron, scarf with eyelet, Manila shawl (the originals are embroidered silk with fringes, also a typical flamenco accessory).
- The traditional costume of the chulapos: a waistcoat or short jacket with an eyelet on the lapel, dark trousers, a cap called a parpusa, and a white scarf around the neck.
Le Chotis
There are traditional costumes, but also a traditional dance! The Chotis. If you’re out and about in Madrid during the festive season, you’re bound to come across chulapos and chulapas dancing this dance in the streets. It’s a kind of polka danced by two people. You may also come across Chotis classes or workshops.
The Pradera San Isidro (San Isidro Park), the Parc de Las Vistillas and the Plaza Mayor are among the places not to be missed if you want to see these shows or learn a few steps!
The San Isidro Fair : the bullfights
Bullfighting is a big part of Spanish festivals. To celebrate Madrid’s patron saint, a number of bullfights are organised from 15 May onwards. These take place in the famous Las Ventas bullring. This is one of the most famous bullfights in the world. It takes place over a month, with one event a day.
Don’t forget that you can also visit these famous arenas throughout the year.
The San Isidro procession in Madrid
On the afternoon of 15 May, the San Isidro procession (from 7pm in previous years) takes place in the city centre. In principle, the route starts from the collegiate church of Saint Isidore (calle de Toledo) and later passes through the plaza Mayor, plaza de la Villa… The route can be found in the festive programme published by the town hall each year.
Parades of giants and bigheads (gigantes y cabezudos)
Giants are also an almost unmissable feature of Spanish festivals. On 15 May, giants and big heads parade through the Pradera de San Isidro (San Isidro Park).
There are also parades of giants in the city centre (Plaza Mayor/Plaza de la Villa) at the very start of the festivities around 10 May.
San Isidro Meadow
La Pradera de San Isidro is also known as San Isidro Park. It is located in the south-west of Madrid and is the main venue for the festivities. Most of the events and gatherings take place in this park. If you’re looking for a place to spend your day on 15 May (a public holiday in Spain), this is the perfect place. We went there last year, and although it was very busy, the atmosphere was great, with people of all ages dressed in traditional costume.
People come here to spend the day, enjoy the concerts and activities, have a picnic, eat the specialities of the festivities… At the very beginning of the park, there’s a large area dedicated to catering, which can be practical, but there really are a lot of them, it’s impressive… It can be a bit scary, but once you move off a bit to the sides, the atmosphere is more relaxed!
Close to this park, it is also customary to visit the hermitage of San Isidro.
It was here that San Isidro drew water from the ground for his master when he was working for him. The hermitage was subsequently built in 1528. On 15 May, it is traditional to drink water from this miraculous spring.
Other events
Many activities are organised around 15 May. Each year, the Town Hall publishes a detailed programme and a poster, which is generally very attractive and available in a range of colours. If you fancy a decorative idea (we haven’t done it yet, but it’s in the pipeline), you can print out the poster in pdf format that the town hall makes available, for a little souvenir to display somewhere…
There are fireworks displays every year. There are usually two, on 14 and 15 May. The sites change from year to year: Retiro Park or Pradera de San Isidro… You’ll have to wait for the programme of festivities to find out!
Numerous concerts are held over the course of these few days. A large number of musical events are concentrated in three places: the Pradera de San Isidro, where a very large stage is usually set up, the Parc de Las Vistillas and the Plaza Mayor. The concerts range from traditional to modern music.
Children are not left out. It’s a family festival. Children’s activities are organised everywhere. At the Pradera de San Isidro, Retiro, Parc de las Vistillas, Matadero… You’ll have the choice: puppet shows, magic shows, children’s theatre, workshops, dance classes, children’s concerts…
Of course, it’s also a good idea to sample the culinary specialities of San Isidro! You can try Rosquillas, which are doughnuts. They come in a variety of flavours and toppings (sugar, aniseed, lemon, vanilla, meringue, chopped almonds).
The atmosphere in Madrid during San Isidro’s Feast Day is really great, and we recommend you try it!
To really understand this festival, we recommend that you visit the San Isidro Museum. It’s free and will tell you all about the origins of Madrid!
If you’re visiting during this period, take a look at our selection of hotels to stay at in Madrid, where you’ll find all the must-visit places in Madrid.
Emilie
